When Duffy landed in New York Metropolis on Wednesday, after spending the week engaged on couture exhibits in Paris, one factor on the high of his to-do record: discover wigs. The important thing hair stylist for the Marc Jacobs Spring 2024 present needed to supply 108 full-lace human hair wigs in lower than 48 hours. “We needed to strip all of them from the silicone, hand shade them, crimp them, then set them,” says Duffy backstage, a number of hours earlier than the present. Every thing concerning the present is an “absurd play on silhouettes, proportions, and construction,” explains Duffy. This contains the clothes, the set—Robert Therrien’s sculpture, “No title (folding desk and chairs, beige),” is featured—and the wonder seems to be.
“The form is a suggestion of that late 60s, early 70s disco second,” explains Duffy. On the moodboard for the present, one can spot a picture of The Supremes that includes their towering, closely teased bouffants. Whereas the seems to be for the present weren’t a direct copy or literal interpretation of the R&B woman group, it was the place to begin for the concept of overly proportioned hair.
To prep the fashions for the wigs, the stylists used hairspray to put down the hair earlier than making use of a wig wrap. L’Oreal Paris Elnett Satin Further Sturdy Maintain Hairspray and Redken Forceful 23 Hairspray have been used to complete the seems to be as soon as the wigs have been utilized. Talking of The Supremes, Diana Ross and her signature feathered lashes and pale lips have been a serious inspiration for the present’s make-up look. “We needed to do an iconic look and provides it a twisted aspect,” says Diane Kendal backstage.
The temper board for the wonder seems to be.
Photograph: Ama Kwarteng
The room the place the completed wigs have been saved.
Photograph: Ama Kwarteng
Photograph: WWD/Getty Photos.
A mannequin backstage.
Photograph: Ama Kwarteng.
The important thing make-up artist for the present used Cetaphil’s Mild Pores and skin Cleaning Cloths, Hydrating Eye Gel-Cream, and Day by day Oil-Free Facial Moisturizer to prep the pores and skin earlier than making use of a base. “It’s actually vital to moisturize the pores and skin in order that the basis sits nicely,” she explains. Highlighter within the type of white grease paint was utilized to the internal nook of the attention, beneath the forehead, and on high of the forehead bone earlier than being topped with white powder. Then, Laura Mercier Unfastened Setting Powder was used so as to add a matte end to the pores and skin.
Forward of the present, her workforce spent two days coating the highest and backside lashes with black nail polish to offer them a spidery and glossy end. The highest lashes have been lined with black eyeliner earlier than making use of the lashes with black Duo glue “to offer some actual density to the attention,” explains Kendal. The make-up artist completed issues off with a matte lip. “We used a taupe lip shade and dabbed basis within the middle to create a really matte mauve lip.” All collectively, the 60’s impressed, doll-like look was a visible surrealist feast.